What I Learned During My Microlocs Consultation
What I Learned from My Microlocs Consultation with EniBraids
Before getting my microlocs installed with EniBraids, a home-service only mobile salon located in Lagos, Nigeria, I was required to attend a virtual consultation. Due to my availability, I attended a group consultation with 5 - 8 other women over a video call, however they also offer private sessions at a slightly higher price. The consultation was led by Eni Oshewa, the Founder and Owner of EniBraids. She was so knowledgeable, honest, and kind. You could tell she really wanted everyone to know ins and outs about installing microlocs and maintenance, so that everyone could make an informed decision on whether or not this journey was from them.
The consultation was comprehensive and covered everything from the basics of what microlocs are to what techniques are best suited for what hair texture and the intricacies of hair maintenance. They even let us choose our installation method with their guidance. I left the session feeling more informed, confident, and prepared to embark on my microlocs journey. If you’re considering installing microlocs, I’d highly recommend chatting with a microlocs loctician or specialist in advance, so that they can assess your hair type, answer any questions that you may have, and to make sure you’re on the same page about the best way to start your microlocs.
Techniques for Starting Microlocs
At EniBraids, the locticians use three techniques to start microlocs: interlocking, two-strand twists (loctwists), and braids (braidlocs). They can also start them with extensions, however they don’t recommend it.
Interlocking:
The interlocking technique is the most popular / requested, and it’s most similar to the method used to start Sisterlocks. The locs are formed by the interlocking method which involves using your hands / small crochet tool at the tip to create small knots up the shaft of your hair to the roots
With this method, your hair will lock the fastest (it will look locked, but it’s not yet mature)
All hair textures can start microlocs with this technique
On the day of installation, this method usually takes the longest (it can take 2 people 6 – 8 hours to finish if you have less than 8 inches of hair)
With this method, your hair may look very thin and can take 6 – 7 months to see changes in volume
Two-strand Twists (loctwists):
The two-strand twist method has become more popular in the last two years and involves two-strand twisting the hair shaft, then interlocking the roots
This method takes less time to install than interlocks and is a little cheaper
With this technique, your hair will look the most full at the time of installation since the hair expands. You’ll see volume within 3 – 4 months, however you’ll also have more shrinkage with this method
This method is not recommended for looser curl patterns and you need to be mindful of water / moisture which can unravel the locks
Braids (braidlocs):
The braidloc method starts with a normal braid and is interlocked at the root
All hair textures can start microlocs with this technique
It saves time and money
The braid pattern tends to stay in the hair for a long time (can be visible for the first 1 – 1.5 years) and can take time to see volume
Microlocs Sizing:
EniBraids offers two sizes of microlocs, “small” and “medium”. With small locs, you’ll typically end up with ~450 locs depending on your hair texture and density. With medium locs, the parting is done a little bit bigger, so you typically end up with ~350 locs. They made it clear that there is a limit to how small they are able to go without compromising the integrity of your microlocs, and they go as small as your hair will allow. However, with low density hair, they always make the microlocs medium size. Getting the right microloc size for your hair type and density is incredibly important, because it is the foundation for your locs. Locs that are too small are prone to breakage as the hair grows due to the increased weight from shed hairs.
Installation Prep Instructions
To prep for installation day, we were given specific instructions.
Wash and condition your hair. Make sure you rinse thoroughly
After washing, do not use any products. No leave-in conditioner, no product, no oils, no creams
Get a trim and deep conditioning treatment at least two months before your installation
If you want to color your hair, you should dye it before you get your microlocs since the next time you can color it won’t be until your locs are fully mature
Blow out your hair and make sure the base is stretched
Procedures for Installation Day
After arriving for mobile service, the locticians start by parting the hair into the microlocs grid. Then they measure the front, middle, and back of your stretched hair, and take an average to determine the price. They recommended that we sit in a comfortable chair and prepare for a long day, with breaks as needed. As the stylists completed each section, they take pictures and send them to management to ensure the installation is progressing properly.
Maintenance
Moisturizing:
The beauty of microlocs is that they do not require a lot of products to maintain. They are meant to be lightweight and adding products can unravel your locs or add weight to the hair. For moisture, they only recommended using rose water for the first year or until the locs are fully formed. This is because rose water has a unique property that keeps the hair intact, unlike regular water which they said can soften your hair. For those with kinky hair / tight curls, they recommend spraying the scalp generously and the microlocs lightly twice a day, in the morning and night. For looser curls, they recommended once per day, every other day. For extreme dryness, they recommended using a light oil like almond oil or jojoba oil (no Caster oil).
Sleeping:
At bed time, they recommended packing the hair into sections or a pineapple and sleeping with a silk / satin scarf, bonnet, or pillowcase. For those with starter locs less than 5 inches in length, they recommended keeping the microlocs in cornrows from the day of installation to the first retightening to keep the locs intact.
Washing:
Before washing your hair, you should braid and band your hair. Braiding & banding is when you braid your hair in 6 – 10 sections and use a rubber band to secure the tips. Braiding and banding protects the locs and helps prevent slippage and unravelling. You should braid and band your hair every time you wash your hair or before swimming. If you workout often or sweat a lot in the scalp, braiding and banding is also recommended and / or wearing a sweat band. It is also recommended to blow dry your scalp on a cool setting / low heat to prevent mildew or fungus caused by excess moisture.
Hair should be washed with a clarifying / cleansing shampoo. In the initial phases you should NOT use conditioner, as it does not allow the locs to form and causes build up. Once the locs fully mature, you can use conditioners, hot oil treatments, etc. on your locs. They recommended washing your hair every 3 weeks and right before your retie.
Retightening:
At their salon, they only maintain the hair with the interlocking technique to retighten the roots. They also offer retightening classes if you want to learn how to maintain them yourself.
They recommended scheduling the first retightening after 4 weeks to ensure the microlocs are holding up well. From there, they stressed the importance of retightening your locs every 6 – 8 weeks for tight curl patterns, and every 5 – 7 weeks for looser textures. It’s common for the locs around the perimeter to unravel in the initial phase, and they’ll be reestablished at the next retightening. On average, for those with small locs, reties can take 3 – 5 hours, and 2 – 3 hours for those with medium size. At their salon, retie costs depend on the length of time between the last retie, the length, and the number of locs. They stressed the importance of sticking to your retie schedule and not going more than 8 weeks without a retie, since a lot can happen during that time (e.g. merging at the base, thinning, etc.)
Common Loc Issues that Can Occur That Can Require Corrections
Slippage:
Slippage is when your locs slip at the roots, create gaps or unravel at the tips. It is usually caused by excess moisture on your locs from water, sweat, or product build up. To prevent slippage, it’s recommended to pull your hair away from your forehead / nape when you exercise or to wear a sweatband. Additionally, always braid and band your hair when washing. After washing, you can airdry the hair or blow dry on low / cool heat before taking down the braids. Slippage tends to be more common in the early stages with looser curl patterns when the hair is not fully locked.
Bunching:
Bunching Is when your locs are not uniform and there are sections that look thicker. Your locs should be uniform from the root to the tip. Bunching usually happens from 6 months and is most common with loose hair textures that start the locs using two strand twists. To prevent bunching, it is recommended that you run your hands through your locs with your fingers after washing or spraying with rose water.
Thinning:
From time to time, you may experience thinning with your locs, however it can be caused by a bunch of different reasons. Common causes are waiting too long in between reties, stress, hormones, diet, medication, or loc dryness. It typically happens in the front, along the edges and with fine strands. If the weight of the locs is too heavy for the hair along the edges, thinning can also occur. To reduce thinning caused by the locs themselves, it’s recommended to stick to a retightening schedule or to retie the front more frequently.
Things to Keep in Mind On the Loc Journey
It’s common to experience extreme scalp dryness and itchiness in the beginning, as it takes time for the scalp to adjust to the hair style
Drink more water to stay hydrated – it helps your hair
Protect your locs as much as possible. Getting lint in your locs is very difficult to get out and can damage your locs. Be cognizant that your scarves / sweaters are not rubbing against them.
Be patient through the process
Remember not to compare your locs to others
Trust the process
After the virtual consultation, EniBraids followed up with a Microlocs Consultation Fact Sheet that contained all the major topics covered during the session and served as an amazing reference guide. They also had us complete a Consultation Quiz for extra reassurance that we were well informed of everything we needed to know about starting our microlocs journey to set us up for success. I appreciated that they provided us with so much information up front, allowed us to ask questions, and tailored everyone’s experience to their specific needs and preferences. I highly recommend paying for a microlocs consultation before getting your locs installed (even if you decide to do them yourself). Nothing beats receiving information directly from a professional.
